Trastevere holds more than one Rome. There’s the one you can photograph today — the ochre facades, the ivy, the restaurants spilling onto the cobblestones. And then there’s the one that’s gone: a port that no longer takes boats, a hospital wing built for the poor, a duchess’s household, a saint’s family home before it became a shrine.
Four rooms, four fragments of that vanished city — named not for what stands here now, but for who was here before it did.